Here is a pic of the "business" side of the engine. you can see my ebay special water to air intercooler in the top left. The compressor side of the turbo feeds into the modified intercooler through a short section of aluminium pipe. I also mounted the blow off valve in this pipe. The intercooler is sitting right over the hot turbo so i plan on adding a bit of heat shielding to it and also putting a heat blanket on the hot side of the turbo. You can't see it here but I built a complete 2.5" exhaust from the turbine outlet to the back of the truck. I even put in a high flow cat and a muffler so it is emissions legal once I put in the proper map in the ECU. Here in Texas they run the car based on the vin #. So instead of testing it like a '89 6 cylinder they test it as a '85 4 cylinder. The 4 cylinders have a higher emissions threshold than the 6 cylinders. I would have passed everything with flying colors except the low speed NOx under the 6cyl standards. I think it would have passed even that if the testing place had tested it when it was hot instead of letting it cool for almost 30 min.
You can see here that the engine is fairly close to the radiator. I didn't think i had enough room to put electric fans on the engine side of the radiator so i mounted them in the space between the grill and the A/C condenser. I had to cut the grill a bit to give enough room for the fans. Yes the A/C works but its just cool with the r134a refrigerant not cold. This system was originally designed for R12 but the EPA has passed laws that make it very expensive. I haven't spent any time trying to make it work better at this point. probably wouldn't hurt to flush the whole system and clean any dirt off of the evaporator.
This is the 2.5" exhaust as it comes down from the turbo, wraps under the oil pan, then continues off the the rear towards the cat. I thought I had ordered stainless pipe, judging by the straight section after the flange it looks like I did not. All the mandrel bends are still rust free at least.

I don't have any pics of it right now but the engine is running on a Megasquirt II Fully programmable ECU that I assembled and tuned. I still need to put it back on the dyno and re tune it again at 6 psi because I loaded a new version of firmware that runs MUCH smoother than the old version. Seems to be a little rich across the board however. If you have the know how and the time you cant beat a Megasquirt in price or customizability for a standalone ECU. I think i less have than $300 in mine. You would have to spend well over $1k to get something comparable. More info on the Megasquirt.

Here is the mostly finished swap. The engine is a 7MGE 3.0L straight six out of a '89 Toyota Supra. I put in the lower compression 7MGTE pistons from the turbocharged version of this motor as well as adding the factory turbo setup. The original motor was a 2.4L 4Cyl that put out a measly 90Hp at the wheels on a good day. They would run forever, but towing a motorcycle trailer into a headwind was very aggravating. The new turbo motor cranks out 230Hp at the wheels @ about 6psi of boost. I also added a Mile Marker hydraulic winch that is powered off of the power steering pump. I still need to get the truck stuck in the creek so I can test out the winch.

Here is a slightly better view of my custom bumper. I started with a large piece of about .25" thick angle for the winch mount. I then used two more pieces of about 3" heavy angle on each side to mount to the factory bumper location and also the factory tow hook location. I think the frame will fail before the bumper does. I also used some 2" channel to angle back from the winch to the sides then added a plate to the bottom edge of the channel angling back towards the tires. I didn't finish boxing in the drivers side yet because I suspected the single intercooler radiator on the passenger side would not be big enough. I'm going to find another radiator on ebay, then i'll finish up the bumper. I boxed in the passenger side but didn't weld it. I used bolts so I can get access to the intercooler radiator.

This is from about a year and a half ago. I was test fitting my aluminum radiator i ordered from summit. I hope it will provide enough cooling capacity, so far so good. I cut out the core support then added a couple of pieces on to the ends so i could reuse the factory hood latch in the factory location. The whole hood latch piece now is easily removable with a couple of bolts. I also welded tabs on the radiator to mount with the same bolts as the A/C condenser. unfortunately to pull the radiator i have to pull the condenser. But this was the best way I could find to mount it at the time. If you look closely you can see the vice grip that's holding on the winch. I didn't weld it to the mounts till i had the cooling fans and the grill fully assembled. The hydraulic hoses stick out from the back of the winch and i had to make sure i could clear them with the fans. You can see in this picture the factory airflow meter. This was prior to installing the turbo. I had planned to run it without the turbo for a bit but decided to go ahead and get the turbo mounted.


I added some .25" spacers under the tranny/x-fer case mount to keep the rear of the engine off of the firewall. I used the 5MGE motor mounts on the block but i cut them apart and re welded them with the motor dropped about 2 inches to clear the hood but that put the oil pan really close to the axle. So I put on a 2" body lift and put the motor mounts back where I thought they should be. I should have started with a 2" body lift and left the motor mounts alone. Anyway the spacers seem to keep the engine off the firewall. I did have larger spacers installed but they were causing some drive shaft bind. I suppose I could redo the motor mounts with the engine about 1/4-1/2" further forward. It would require modifying the rear tranny mount though. I imagine the drive shafts can absorb that much movement. I may do that some day if I'm feeling adventurous.

I still need to do something about the suspension. I'd like to ride a little smoother with the extra weight up front. I don't really know what to do about it though. I suppose a slightly stiffer spring would keep it off the bumpstops a little better and some longer shackles for a bit of a lift in the front.